Dior Cruise 2027: A Review

Words:
Gemma Lacey
Photography:
Douglas Harrison Neill

There will be plenty of people eager to frame Jonathan Anderson’s debut Dior show in Los Angeles as an homage to Hollywood. But to reduce it to that alone misses the deeper intelligence of his world-building, something Anderson has always understood better than most designers working today.

Even in his earliest gestures for Dior, we saw this instinct emerge. Thimbles, tape measures, the quiet ephemera of sewing and craft became heroic objects in his hands. Not as ironic props or whimsical decoration, but as symbols of process, labour, and the intimate rituals of making clothes. Anderson understands the foundations fashion is built upon, the tactile, everyday acts performed on and around the body, yet he approaches them with curiosity and playfulness rather than reverence.

 

So while the LA show nodded to Marlene Dietrich, old cinema glamour, and Dior’s historic relationship with Hollywood, Anderson’s perspective was far more contemporary than nostalgia alone. He understands that in the age of social media, audiences no longer want to simply observe a world. They want to step inside it. Four vintage cars parked within the set became portals into Anderson’s universe, inviting guests and fans to physically inhabit the fantasy he had constructed around them.
And placing the show at Los Angeles County Museum of Art was equally deliberate. Framing the collection within a cultural institution rather than a purely cinematic backdrop shifted the conversation toward art, craft, and cultural authorship. It rewarded viewers willing to look beyond surface-level glamour.

 

There was also a confidence in allowing the clothes themselves to speak without overstatement. Tweed tailoring appeared throughout, but stripped of the rigid, tightly cinched severity traditionally associated with Dior.
Anderson’s silhouettes loosened and subtly flared at the hem, giving them movement and ease. Seeing actresses like Mikey Madison wearing them added another layer to the narrative, a casting choice that felt intentionally less polished, less predictable, and therefore more interesting.

 

Elsewhere, brightly coloured chiffon swept through the collection with movement and lightness, capturing attention in the same way cinema does, through motion, distraction, and seduction. Anderson borrows the emotional mechanics of film and translates them into clothing, making fashion feel immersive rather than static.
There were touches of classic Hollywood glamour, oversized sunglasses and glitter-threaded tweeds, but always grounded in practicality and reality. Plaid menswear fabrics, utilitarian by nature, became poetic through embroidered fragments of lyrics and text. Womenswear dissolved into endless ruffles and movement. It is this balance Anderson understands so instinctively, elevating ordinary objects and familiar fabrics until they feel charged with emotion and imagination.

 

And perhaps most importantly, he understands the value of joy. The afterparty at Chateau Marmont was one of the most genuinely enjoyable LA evenings in recent memory, Marie Antoinette-style cakes, champagne, and a perfectly judged school-disco soundtrack. Anderson’s work carries that same spirit throughout: sophistication without stiffness, intellect without self-seriousness, glamour without distance. Right now, that sense of play feels more valuable than ever.
Words by: Gemma Lacey
Photographer: Douglas Harrison Neill
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