In Coversation With Christopher Esber

January 14, 2025
Fashion & Beauty
Words:
April Ru Wan

Christopher Esber’s craftsmanship is a conversation between fabric, form, and the body. Known for his signature cut-outs, impeccable tailoring, and architectural precision, Esber’s work has become a masterclass in balancing sensuality with elegance. Whether it’s the subtle reveal of skin through negative space or the perfect tension of ruching and hardware, his pieces exude an effortless glamour that feels both modern and timeless. Through my chat with Christopher, it’s clear that his designs are more than just garments—they’re a reflection of his personal philosophy and creative evolution. From his early influences, like his aunt’s fearless approach to cutting fabric, to his ongoing fascination with brutalist architecture and Henry Moore’s sculptures, his work is rooted in a deep respect for craftsmanship and experimentation. In this interview, we delve into his journey, his vision of the Christopher Esber woman, and the organic milestones that have shaped his brand.

April Wan: You’ve described starting with tailoring and experimenting with negative space and deconstruction. Do you remember the first time you felt you had truly mastered that balance between form and function? Was it an intentional breakthrough or something that evolved naturally?
Christopher Esber: When designing, my personal taste comes to mind, and what I enjoy outside of fashion always seems to creep through. Artists like Alberto Giacometti inspire me in their study of negative space that inhabits their works. When working through the lines and shapes of the season, there’s a moment of relief and separation of the line which creates the visual cut out. And with time, this idea has been refined as we’re always perfecting the ideas from the archetypes, from the perfect blazer to the perfect black dress. How I envision the Christopher Esber woman is not confined to a singular moment in time or a specific place. She has consistently evolved alongside changes in both my personal design philosophy and broader shifts in fashion and culture.
AW: Your signature cutouts, ruching, and use of hardware feel like an ongoing dialogue with the body. Is there a specific moment or piece that encapsulates your vision of “concealing and revealing” the body.
CE: For me, it’s about the line and the silhouette. It’s about these lines intersecting each other to create separation to convey the body underneath, which brings a sexuality to the piece. This is a nice tension when you have something overtly sexual against something quite elegant and pure in the design lines. To soften the severe cut outs, there are added elements of openness and disrobing which happens naturally because of all the line work. Where the cutout is placed and where it becomes more bare is what we tweak and make interesting each season.
AW: Your designs often resonate with women who exude strength and confidence. How do you approach translating those traits into fabric and structure? What does the “Christopher Esber woman” mean to you?
CE: She’s effortless, yet the chicest person in the room. She has a paired down and relaxed approach to glamour and dressing.
AW: Many designers dream of showing in Paris, but achieving it involves immense pressure. Reflecting on your debut Paris Fashion Week show, what did you learn about yourself as a creative and as a leader?
CE: I have been visiting Paris for many years to show the collection to our wholesale buyers, but to be able to show in a runway setting is a true expression of the brand. To have all of our supporters there from the media, to tastemakers has been a full circle moment. Although the pressure is big, I feel comfortable with it. And working through this significant event, allowing yourself to enjoy the moment, and just be happy.
AW: You’ve said that dressing women organically rather than chasing celebrity placements has been central to your success. Yet, moments like JLo wearing your Salacia Wire Column Dress stand out. What is the most rewarding aspect of these organic milestones?
CE: When I’m an admirer of someone, it feels serendipitous when they’re drawn to the brand. Recently Diane Kruger wore a SS25 runway dress to the Marrakech Film Festival.
AW: Your journey began with an aunt who inspired you to push boundaries in fabric and pattern cutting. How has her influence shaped your approach to risk-taking and experimentation in your collections today?
CE: I was surrounded by my aunties who were always sewing, creating and cutting for clients. Their ability to cut into fabric without a pattern, by only looking at somebody’s body is a skill that was passed down to me. This free form confidence was instilled at an early age, and I wasn’t constricted to the rigid formality of design principles. I of course learnt the craft later on, but having this freedom to create without rules was something that was instilled.
AW: The intimate detailing in your work—like metal embellishments or precisely placed slits—feels almost architectural. Have you ever drawn inspiration from outside fashion, like sculpture or interior design?
CE: Interior design also influences my work. I’ve always been into brutalist architecture and inspired by a mix of Italian and Japanese interiors. Henry Moore’s works I continuously reference for inspiration.
AW: Your designs feel timeless yet incredibly modern, and your archives tell a cohesive story season after season. How do you keep that narrative alive while still pushing into uncharted creative territory?
CE: There’s an evolution and fascination of the archetypes which continues into each season. We’re always thinking about the woman, and what feels familiar to her, yet fresh in a new context. This constant push to discover, create and find new ways of wearing things, and mixing the pieces together starts in the development of pattern cutting and creating a new silhouette. There’s an ongoing pursuit of creating newness across all our touch points of design from textile choices, to how we cut and how we tell a story through our visual communication.
AW: Could you share a glimpse of how these might expand the Christopher Esber universe? Is there a dream partnership you’re manifesting?
CE: To partner with an iconic brand that has been a part of a woman’s wardrobe for her life. For example, Levi’s would be amazing as we share a value in creating something new to last for each stage of her life.

CHRISTOPHER ESBER

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